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Switcheasy Rebel

Posted by Jonathan on August 4, 2009 in Projects, Tripod Mount |

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What Parts do you need to modify a SwitchEasy Rebel:

NOTE: A lot of the parts at McMaster-Carr are sold in Quantities. You usually can not just buy one or two of a item from them.

(1) 1/4”-20 Weld Nut

(I got mine at my local Bolt and Screw)

You can get one at McMaster-Carr. Part Number “98697A540”

IMG_6587

(4) 1/8” Blind CounterSunk Rivets

(I got these at Home Depot)

You can get them at McMaster-Carr. Part Number “97525A665”

IMG_6590

Tools I used with Modifying the Switcheasy Rebel:

  • A Dremel with a decent accessory kit
  • An 1/8” Drill Bit
  • A Drill bit with a diameter a little bigger than .300”, a 5/16” bit will be perfect if your holes are drilled with tight tolerances.
  • A Vise
  • A Rivet Gun
  • A Cordless Drill
  • A Countersink set, a 1/4” to 1” set should do.
  • A metal file. Any length should do. A 6″ or 8″ bastard file is what I used.
  • An xacto knife set can help with some of the plastic work.
  • A drill press is Optional, but makes drilling out the Weld Nut easier
  • A Belt Sander is Optional but makes quick work of some of the tasks.

Below you will find pictures of all the tools I used. Not all the tools were used from the pictures that have more than one tool in them.



How to mod your SwitchEasy Rebel Case to incorporate a tripod mount:

Safety: Always wear glasses of some type with drilling/cutting/grinding metal and plastic. Safety glasses are the best to wear since they are usually made of a hard plastic, but anything to protect your eyes is better than nothing.




Step One- Prepare the Parts

  1. If you use the same weld nuts as I did you will need to drill out the projections on the weld nut with a 1/8’ Drill bit using a drill press or a drill/Dremel and a Vise. PLEASE remember to use cutting oil when doing this as the steel these nuts are made out of is very tough.
  2. Countersink the 4 holes you drilled. Countersink the opposite side of the 1/4”-20  hole projection.(see my video instructions)
  3. Take your rivets and put the head in the end of a cordless drill (this will in effect make the drill a lathe) and using a Dremel locked in a vise or a belt grinder sand/grind the countersunk end of the  rivet to a smaller diameter and thickness.


Step Two- Prepare the Case.

  1. This part is best shown in my video, but what we are going to do is place the Weld Nut on the Spine and I like to place it in the space between the second rib of the spine from the bottom. Make sure to line it up as close to in the middle as you can. Next mark the four holes that the rivets will go through  with a permanent marker or if you think you can hold that weld nut in place drill one of the holes.
  2. Now drill the 4 holes for the rivets with a Dremel on high speed. I placed a rivet in the hole after each hole I drilled to keep the weld nut in place.  Once all four holes are drilled inspect them to make sure they are are lined up with the weld nut. If one is off center some use the Dremel to even it up.
  3. With the weld nut still in place mark the very center of the 1/4”-20 hole. I used one of the Xacto knifes to mark the very center.
  4. Remove the weld nut. Take your Dremel and drill a pilot hole in the center of that mark you just made.
  5. Now drill about a 5/16” hole using the pilot hole you made as the place to put your drill bit.
  6. QUICK TIP: I had to run my drill in reverse as my drill bit set likes to grab the plastic and tear through it,  spinning the whole case.

  7. Countersink the holes on the inside of the spine (the opposite side of where the weld nut will be placed). Do not countersink too far as you need some plastic for the rivets to grab onto. Just countersink enough for the rivet heads to sit almost flush with the plastic. If you think you will need to countersink to deep into the plastic,  go back and make the rivet heads smaller.


Step Three- Assembly

  1. Place the weld nut on the spine and put a rivet through the spine and the weld nut. So you are sticking the rivet from the inside of the spine to the outside of the spine. Using your rivet gun squeeze so the rivet grabs the weld nut and tightens. DO NOT squeeze the gun all the way.
  2. Place all 4 rivets and tighten them. The rivets should be filling out the countersinks you made in the weld nut. I personally just tightened the rivets enough to feel really secure but not pop the rivet shanks.
  3. Remove the rivet shanks.
  4. Using either a belt grinder or a Dremel grind down the part of the rivets above the weld nut till they are flush with the weld nut. Make sure you don’t let the metal get too hot, use water to cool the parts down.
  5. Clean up your newly modded Switcheasy Rebel spine and put away all your tools as you are now done.

Related Videos:

This video is a uncut version of my video tutorial on this case.

Download Switcheasy Rebel- M4V Format

To Download: Right Click – Then Click “Save Link As”

Its run time is 35.22 and its file size is 406.02mb.

I will be adding a edited/cut down version that is short enough for youtube in the near future. I will update this post when I finish that video.

This video shows you how to make a home made belt grinder/sander.

Download Home Made Belt Sander- M4V Format

To Download: Right Click – Then Click “Save Link As”

Its run time is 02:17 and its file size is 26.39mb.




Optional Step:

I had some Liquid  Titanium laying around (it’s used to fill gaps in metal shafts for repairing and then machining them), so I mixed up a very small amount and I placed it in a syringe from the plunger side. A common product to use that is similar would be J-B Weld.

IMG_6585

(McMaster-Carr part Number “7510A653”)

I then squeezed some of it into each of the rivet holes and used a small piece of metal (like a squeegee) to even it out on both sides of the rivet holes. I let it dry and I then used my Dremel to grind down any excess. It makes the mod look nicer and adds a little more strength.

IMG_6445

Finished Product:

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